WELCOME TO PORTAFERRY
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History of Portaferry
The history of the Portaferry area is as old as that of man in Ireland, because since prehistoric man hunted and fished the area surrounding Strangford Lough, it has been continuously inhabited. The area has been created by Centuries of invasion, from the earliest farmers believed to have arrived from Britain, through Norsemen, Anglo-Normans, early relatively peaceful plantation and later less peaceful plantation backed up by Cromwellian troops.
Mesolithic man lived from about 7,000 BC to 3,000 BC and evidence of flint tools and implements have been found in the area. The Neolithic period overlapped this from 4,000 BC to 1,800 BC and this was the age of the earliest farmers who found ideal land for basic cultivation in this region and a wealth of Wildfowl and Fish to provide all the necessities of life. A late Neolithic period Cairn can be found at Millin Bay in the Townland of Keentagh. There are also a number of Standing stones throughout the area which are examples of various periods, and are often very difficult to date. However, not far from Millin Bay Is Tara Fort which Is an early-Christian period enclosed farmstead on top of one of the highest hills in the region.
The early-Christian period covers from 400 AD to the 12th Century, and the progress of life in the region is well represented by the progression of Churches. The arrival of Christianity is usually associated with St Patrick, and the argument as to exactly where he landed is still unsettled. Local tradition puts it on the Portaferry side of Strangford Lough, however there is no evidence that Patrick ever visited the area. The Saint most associated with the area however is St Cooey, and the recently restored 'Holy Wells' at Tieveshilly are the site of his Church believed to date from the 7th Century. This is still a place of pilgrimage and the Wells are believed to have healing powers.
Throughout this period, the coastline was under constant attack from the Norse men who gave Strangford Lough its name ('Strang-Fiord'), previously it was known as Lough Cuan. There were many sea battles fought in or around the Lough at this time, and every settlement was under constant fear of attack, particularly Churches where much of the wealth of an area would be represented.
In the Townland of Derry to the North of Portaferry are the remains of two Churches, one at least dedicated to St Cummain, and it is known that this was a site of Christian worship from before 800 AD. The ruins themselves may date from the 10th Century. The first Church in the Townland of Ballyphilip is believed to have been the Church of St Nicholas dating from Anglo-Norman times, and this is perhaps the period when the present town of Portaferry within that Townland became the central point of the area. The Church was dedicated to the Patron Saint of Sailors, and Portaferry was a major Port for many Centuries. The Church and apparently large graveyard are no longer in existence, and were replaced by Temple Cranny, about one mile away, which dates from the 16th Century. The Parish Church at Ballytrustan dating from the same period belonged to the' Knights Hospitallers of St John' who were a Military Order responsible for the protection of Pilgrims on their way to the Holy Land. This probably explains why the Civil Parish of Ballytrustan appears like an island in the middle of Ballyphilip Parish, totally surrounded yet a distinct unit.
Portaferry Castle, also within the Townland of Ballyphilip, dates from the 16th Century and is a Tower-House built by the Savage Family who were the major family of the area for many centuries, managing to maintain their status by changing name and religion after the Reformation. The modern town developed in the 17th Century and the Square consists of large Merchant's Houses mostly dating from the 18th and 19th Centuries. The Market House which is the central point of the town was built in 1752 and was reputedly defended by loyalist yeomen in the 1798 Rebellion.
The Penal days with their persecution of Catholics and Catholicism took their toll on the area, and Mass was celebrated on a Mass Rock in the Townland of Carrstown (Ballyedock). Typical of the area however is the fact that Priests are known to have been hidden by local Protestant families. The relative peace of this region and the lack of real sectarian conflict is so remarkable that in recent years it led to an Anthropological Study of the local people. The present Catholic Church of Ballyphilip started as the only Mass House in the Ards Peninsula under the 'Act of Registration of Popish Clergy' in 1704, and remarkably it survived further changes in the law designed to make Catholicism even less visible. This building was replaced in 1762 by the basic structure which exists today, partly rebuilt in 1831 and enlarged in 1845.
Arthur Young in his 'Tour of Ireland' of 1796, describes Portaferry as having 'a tolerable share of trade" and the principal occupations as being "Fishermen, Sailors and Farmers." It was perhaps the importance of Portaferry as a harbour which has led to the deterioration of employment in the area today. The relatively prosperous nineteenth century and the Industrial Revolution almost passed Portaferry and the surrounding area by. Despite a Committee of local influential people being set up to attract the building of a Railway line to link the town with Newtownards and Belfast, it was unsuccessful. and gradually the Industrial base of the area has declined to the situation where all of the major employers have now left the town, and those lucky enough to have jobs have to travel daily to Belfast and beyond. Strenuous efforts are being made to bring employment back, but so far without success.
The present Century has seen a steady decline, and like much of Ireland, increased emigration, yet the population has grown. In the early 1970s these figures were increased by the arrival of many people from Belfast trying to escape the 'troubles' and build a new life in the Country. A large house-building programme at this time almost doubled the size of the town, but the situation has now been reversed so that there Is now a massive waiting list for housing which is not being adequately met by the Northern Ireland Housing Executive. Many people have preferred to leave the town and return to the traditional townlands, some of which have become relevant again for the first time in centuries. The Political and sectarian violence of the past decades has not been totally escaped, although it Is not a dominant factor. The beautiful scenery Is now the major asset of the area bringing large numbers of Tourists, and the richness of its history can only be of benefit to that trade. The original town of Portaferry has been declared a Conservation area, and combined with stronger Planning Laws, and a keen Interest among many local inhabitants, it is unlikely that the heritage of Portaferry will be lost.
ŠKevin Byers 1999